Draw on the board on the right (below on phones). Select a shape to set its cut type and depth under the board.
Save & open designs
🔒 Private: your drawing stays in this browser tab only and is never uploaded. Every new visit starts with a fresh panel. Use 💾 Save design to keep it.
2 How to carve it
Tabs are small bridges left at the bottom of a cut-out so the part doesn't break loose. Snip or sand them off afterwards. Holes inside a part (like the middle of an O) get no tabs.
Inlays: carve the female into the base board, then the male into a contrasting board with the same V-bit and max depth (it comes out mirrored). Glue the male face-down into the female and plane or sand it flush. A start depth about half the max depth leaves room for glue. Cut the plug board down to the cleared ring before gluing.
3 Machine, material & bit
Two bits: your main bit clears the big areas, then the job pauses so you can put in the detail bit and set Z0 again. The detail bit only cuts the corners and thin parts the main bit could not reach.
Laser output uses GRBL laser mode (M4 dynamic power). Make sure laser mode is on in your controller ($32=1), focus the laser on the material surface, and wear the safety glasses for your laser.
Feeds in inches per minute. Defaults suit wood with a 1/8" bit; check your bit maker's chart.
🖨️ Make an STL (3D print it)
Turns this sign, image or drawing into a 3D model (STL). Open it in your slicer (Cura, PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer or Bambu Studio), slice it for your printer and filament, then print. Sizes are in millimeters.
Drawings: cut-outs become the part's outline, holes go through, and pockets and lines stand up from the plate. The "Cut-off" slider above decides what counts as dark for signs and images.
How to run it in Easel or another sender
Clamp your material and set X0 Y0 at the zero point you chose (front-left corner unless you changed it, the same as Easel's default) and Z0 on the top surface.
In Easel, use the G-code import option and open the .nc file. Or open it in Universal G-code Sender, Candle or gSender.
Install the same bit and size you chose here.
Do a test run in the air (raise Z) or on scrap first, wear eye and ear protection, and never leave the machine running unattended.
Brown fill = pocket · blue = on the line · orange dashes = cut out · purple dashes = hole · gray = guide. Green dot = X0 Y0. Mouse wheel zooms; drag with the middle button or hold Space to pan.
🔌 Machine control GRBL routers & lasers: FoxAlien, X-Carve, Shapeoko, Sienci, 3018…3D printers with Marlin firmware over USB: Ender 3, Kobra, Neptune 3, Prusa MINI…
Plug the machine's USB cable into this computer, then press Connect and pick it from the list.
Not connectedFeed 100%
X0.000
Y0.000
Z0.000
Set zero here:
Job:the G-code made above
Resume carve: after a stop, this fills in a line just before where it stopped. Leave X/Y/Z zero alone, then Start.
Feed speed while running:
No job running.
Not a slicer: slice your STL in Cura, PrusaSlicer or OrcaSlicer first, then open the .gcode here.
Not connected
Hot end °C–
Bed °C–
Z (mm)–
Heat up:
Print file:none yet
No print running.
Console
Keep this tab open and the computer awake for the whole print: the page sends the file line by line. For long prints, an SD card or your printer's own Wi-Fi is more reliable.
Safety: this is a convenience, not a safety device. Keep your machine's physical emergency stop within reach, never leave a running router or laser unattended, and wear eye and ear protection.
Everything runs in your browser; your images and designs are never uploaded. We only count visits anonymously on our own server (no cookies, nothing personal). Always double-check toolpaths before cutting.